When it comes to preparing for a blackout, most people think about stocking up on batteries, flashlights, and maybe even non-perishable food. However, a blackout generator kit can be a real game-changer, ensuring that essential appliances and electronics remain powered.
While assembling a DIY generator kit may seem straightforward—just grab a generator and some extension cords—there’s more to consider if you want a setup that’s efficient, safe, and reliable. This guide will cover often-overlooked details that can make or break your blackout power plan.
A DIY blackout generator kit can be an excellent safeguard against power outages, but only when you’ve planned for all the small details that are easy to forget. My kit will cover everything you need between the generator and your devices/appliances.
With my kit I cannot only keep essential appliances running, but keep all my tool batteries and devices charged up as well. When the lights go out it’s not the best time to be searching and scrounging for chargers, cords and cables. Having everything in one place prepared and ready will always trump unprepared and disorganized.
My Blackout Kit:
- Case or Toolbox: RIDGID 2.0 Pro Gear System Power Tool Case 254069 – I choose this case because it met my size requirements and was still compact enough to be easily portable.
- Power Strip: CCCEI Metal Power Strip – I wanted a power strip with individual outlet switches so I could control what was on a off without pulling plugs. It was also important to choose a power strip with a straight plug end for the external power port.
- USB Power Hub: Anker 60W 6 Port Charging Station – I choose to forgo multiple plugin chargers for 1 multiport smart USB charging hub. This hub will not only free up outlets, but with it’s smart technology it will adapt to each device allowing faster charging when compatible.
- USB Cables: Short USB Cables – While I have a variety of cables I felt that these shorter colored cables would be optimal for use within the box, allowing me to locate the correct cable end and making it easier to close the lid without pinching cables.
- Heavy Duty Extension Cords: Heavy Duty 12/3 Gauge Extension Cord 25 ft & Heavy Duty 12/3 Gauge Extension Cord 50 ft – With a 25′ and a 50′ I can run a cord to both my upstairs and downstairs refrigerators without needing any additional cord or connectors. Additionally in other applications I can choose a single run of 25′, 50′, or 75′ with these 2 cords.
Miscellaneous Parts:
- Weatherproof AC Power Inlet – I couldn’t find the exact one I used, but this on is similar. This is not a necessary part, but it sure makes things easier.
- C8 to C7 90 Degree Adapter – This allows me to tuck the Anker 60W 6 Port Charging Station into the corner of the box.
- A few nuts, bolts, etc. – You might need a few fasteners, tape, and zip-ties, I’ve modified a few components to better fit the box, but the components of your choosing may differ.
- Lever Nuts – I shortened a few of my electrical cables and used these to reconnect them, if you’re not handy with a soldering iron or just like to prototype these things are great. A thousand times better than a wire nut and easy to use.
My Blackout Kit will get additional use during family camping trips. So the size of the box and space for the extension cords was very important to me. A larger box that could hold even more cord and things might be a better build for you, or a smaller box that doesn’t need to store extension cords might be right for your needs. Anyway you build it I’m sure it will benefit you when the power goes out.
Please feel free to share your thoughts and ideas, I’m always looking for ways to improve my systems.